Tie

History of the tie

One reads or hears still often that the word “tie” is a transformation of the Croatian word “”, in reference to the mercenaries of the same country employed by Louis XIII at the 17th century. Those had as a practice to carry a Foulard tied around the neck. Actually, one finds traces of the word tie as of the 14th century, and that as well in France as in Italy, in particular in the writings of Eustace Deschamps. However, “Croatian” in Croatian is written Hrvat , with a pronunciation very close to the French word “tie”. It is not thus excluded at all that the port of this accessory was given to the last style by the famous Croatian soldiers of the king.

However, the fashion of the port of the tie in Europe seems well to begin at the 17th century. It then starts to replace the jabots Dentelle, which themselves had supplanted the strawberry S, more cumbersome and certainly less comfortable. The tie is then generally broad band of Coton or flax, decorated with laces. This band is rolled up around the neck and is tied on the front while letting hang the two ends.

Under Louis XIV, one starts to decorate this node of Ruban S multicoloured. It is also the Sun king who creates the “function” of “cravatier”. This one depends on the “Large Master of the Guard Wraps” whose load was creates in 1669. The cravatier thus belongs to the services of the room of the king and has the statute of rider. Its function is then to choose and alter the tie of the king, but also the cufflinks and the Diamant S.

Towards the end of the 17th century, it is with the tower of the tie known as Steinkerque to make its entry. It appeared at the time of the battles of Flandres of the same name. It is a tie with the simple node which one passes one of the sides in the buttonhole. This one disappears at the beginning of the 18th century to make place with novel modes, in particular “stock”. The latter is modified towards the end of the 18th century by the addition of a black Ruban surrounding the neck and maintaining the hair behind the head. This tie is most known of this century, and besides one finds it in good number of historical reconstitutions of the time.

In spite of some stormy debates on the social place of this accessory, the Révolution will not come to end from the tie, quite to the contrary. Whereas the French test themselves with a tie very puffing out, called to the Garat, of the name of the actor having popularized it, the British swear only by the white tie with the complex nodes, following the example Brummell, large Dandy of his time. This type of tie, of black color, becomes then with the mode in France.

Little time after, vis-a-vis the difficulty in tying this kind of accessories (majority being sold already gone up besides), appears the tie “Regatta” which is truly the ancestor of our current tie. It is besides at the same time that appears the modern bow tie. The New Yorkean cravatier Langdorf will have the idea in 1924 to cut it in diagonal and to assemble it in three parts to simplify the use of it. An invention of size which will come to give to the tie its current aspect.

The tie today

According to some, the tie would be perceived, since the Années 1980, like the anachronistic example and symbolic system of the conformism of the tradition in the offices and the businesses and would constitute a symbol of the guindés professionals.

Vis-a-vis this feeling, a mode come from the United States, authorizes the executives not to carry the tie, Friday, takes care of the weekend. It is the " Friday Wear".

See too

External bonds

Cravatier History, Manufacture, Anecdotes.
Node of tie Diagrams, descriptions and difficulties.
All nodes of tie Last nine nodes of tie in drawings and animated version.
Academia-Cravatica, engl.

Simple: Necktie

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Tie

History of the tie

The tie today

See too

Related articles

External bonds